NAXOS - where the old world meets the timeless charm of the Cyclades

"It takes a lifetime to discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her." - Henry Miller

In November 2022 we spent ten days on Naxos, an island I had never heard of before, and therefore, had no idea what to expect.

Naxos is a rather "small" island, though still the largest of the Cyclades islands, a group of Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. Compared to some of the more popular islands like Santorini and Mykonos, Naxos is relatively less crowded with tourists. This makes it an ideal destination for those seeking a more tranquil and authentic Greek experience.

We landed at the very small airport, where it literally only takes you a few steps to get from the plane to the baggage „claim“, which is more a slightly rusty baggage carousel, before you have officially arrived on the island. After paying a taxi driver way too much for a ten-minute ride from the airport, we were greeted by the lovely mother of our host and checked in our appartement for the next ten days.

The place was spotlessly clean, beyond anything we had experienced before in all our years as loyal Airbnb members. We had a wonderful terrace that allowed us to soak in the Greek island ambiance, with the view of its white-washed houses and rooftop terraces.

We kicked off our adventure by exploring the town on foot, starting with a leisurely stroll along the nearby beach. We passed by what seemed to be the ruins of a once-beautiful restaurant and eventually reached the bustling promenade and harbour. The colorful fishing boats swayed in the crystal-clear waters, and the charming cafes lining the waterfront invited us for a morning coffee. We couldn't resist the allure of fresh breakfast while watching the world slowly go by. It always seems like time moves slower on these islands. We ended our first day by watching the sunset at the beach. I had missed the island life and was very happy to be here.

On our second day, we set our alarms early to go watch the sunrise at the Temple of Apollo, a historic site perched atop a hill overlooking the town. It was pretty brisk in the morning, so we took our sweaters with us. Once we arrived at the themple, in addition to the cold wind, it started drizzling. For a second we thought about going back but decided to wait it out and got rewarded with a breathtaking bright sunrise. As the first rays of sunlight bathed the ancient ruins in a warm glow, you immediately understood why Greece was called the land of Gods. And of course this morning had to be topped off with a beautiful rainbow showing up at the horizon.

Filled with happiness, we ventured into the old town afterwads, to get to the highest point where an ancient castle and church waited for us. We walked through winding alleyways, encountering only a few cats, as we ascended. Considering it was offseason in Naxos, it was a pleasant change not to squeeze past big groups of tourists.

The church and castle, though small, were nice but no place to spent a lot of time at so we made our way back down, this time choosing a different route on the other side of the hill.

We typically spent our mornings exploring and returned in the afternoon for work, planning our next travel steps, cooking, or simply relaxing on the terrace.

While Nico attended some meetings the following morning, I decided to go to the town again, exploring the labyrinth of charming alleys. I lost myself in the narrow streets, where every turn revealed colorful bougainvillea, charming boutiques, and local artisans crafting unique treasures. A paradise for my camera and me.

I then spent the afternoon at the beach, hoping to work on my tan, but had to give up after an hour since it was just too cold and cloudy here in November. So I went back to our place and started to write our Athens blogpost.

For the day after I had planned another excursion, this time around the rugged back country of Naxos. We rented a buggy and had a blast! The wind while driving was really cold but the experience so much fun. On top the island has an incredibly stunning landscape. We visited an old monastery, or rather, its ruins, which is a serene oasis hidden amidst olive groves and tucked away from the bustling tourist spots. It was a very peaceful atmosphere. With a lot of sheep poop everywhere.

Continuing along dirt roads, passing by breathtaking panoramas, we drove to three old windmills, from which you could even overlook the ocean. Then we reached the small village of Chalkio, where we snacked at the only open café left in this season, until it was time to drive back.

We made a short pit stop at the so called „Hawaii Beach" to watch the sunset. We had picked up a sweet treat from a bakery in Chalkio and enjoyed it while watching the blood-orange sun disappear behind the horizon.

And then, after ten days on the island, we had to pack our bags again and headed to the airport. Of course all in style by driving the buggy with our luggage to the airport and leaving it there for the rental company to pick it up later. That’s what I call a service.

With a small propeller plane, we left the beautiful island of Naxos and set off to our next destination. I was really excited to go there, as it would be my first time in that specific country. Think Mediterranean coast with crystal-clear water, high mountains, remote villages, ancient ruins and - Baklava. I believe you can guess where we went to next.

Love and hugs,